on the original install DVDs that came with the machine. If you can
boot the machine, see if you can run the diagnostics.
> Thefirst thing I di was to stick the live cd in. That didn't fix a thing
> plus that doesn't take care of the cooling fan issue..... did I tell you
> I get that notice right before bios takes over?
>
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Stephen Partington
> <cryptworks@gmail.com <mailto:cryptworks@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Have you tried a live CD of any flavor to see if it persists?
>
> On Sep 18, 2014 8:35 AM, "Michael Havens" <bmike1@gmail.com
> <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> when the keybosrd problem stsrted about 6 months ago getting
> another keyboard was the first thing I did and there was no
> problem with it when I attached an external keyboard. You
> mentioned smoking being a problem? I've never done that. You
> wondered about the distro? I run Linux Mint.
>
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 6:08 AM, Lisa Kachold
> <foobar@it-clowns.com <mailto:foobar@it-clowns.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> In order to work with the technician effectively, you are
> going to want to be closely involved with the work process.
> In this respect, you will ask him what he thinks the problem
> is, or what his first actions are, for instance if he
> recommends a full diagnostic.
>
> But first, I would do some diagnostics myself before taking
> your equipment to the technician.
>
> IT IS A GOOD POSSIBILITY THAT THIS IS DUE TO MORE THAN ONE
> CAUSE (but all related to your distro or drivers)!
>
> If you are SMOKING or exposing the laptop to soot of any
> kind, you will want to clean the laptop completely FIRST.
>
> Everyone has issues with the WIRELESS switch on older
> equipment, just futz with it, as I have never seen anyone
> have it STAY BROKEN? But this clearly would be the
> technician stage....
>
> Various diagnostic programs exist for linux, which you might
> consider before spending money on the technician, to verify
> power supply, bus, and CPU.
>
> Intel Proc Diagnostic for Linux:
> https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=19792
> PowerTop:
> http://xmodulo.com/2013/06/how-to-monitor-power-usage-in-linux.html
>
> What distro are you running? Known issues with KDE and
> Chrome with keyboard I/O are common (which I expect is the
> cause of your issues after applying a patch):
>
> http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=53398&p=306336&hilit=keyboard+stops+working#p306336
>
> Spares are your friend, so try an external keyboard and see
> if the issue follows that hardware (kernel driver) switch,
> then you can be sure that it is application/distro based
> rather than hardware based.
> As for fan control, there are various tools and again KNOWN
> ISSUES (ArchLinux) with fancontrol under linux:
> http://askubuntu.com/questions/63588/how-do-i-get-fan-control-working
> Karmic:
> https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/linux/+bug/451337
>
> You can use a live distro to rule out your keyboard issues -
> divide and conquer.
>
> Using OSI Level debugging, you go to the layer where the
> issue exists and traverse up and down to adjacent layers, so
> clearly there is only the human level on the other side of
> the Physical Layer 1, which is where the problems present
> themselves, so the other direction would be the drivers in
> linux.
>
> You would rule out issues here with a systematic diagnostic,
> use of spares and intelligent research.
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 8:54 PM, Michael Havens
> <bmike1@gmail.com <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> What can I tell the service tech so I don't sound too
> stupid?
>
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 8:03 PM, Michael Havens
> <bmike1@gmail.com <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> oh.... I forgot to say that none of the other
> computers in my house seem to have been affected
> though it may be that it needs to be power-cycled
> and/or it may be something that only affects
> wireless and something got on the phone lines (my
> home is on DSL).
>
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 7:50 PM, Michael Havens
> <bmike1@gmail.com <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>
> Thank you so much for the detailed explanation,
> Jon. You know.... I have a laptop and I don't
> have a MAC but I read your troubleshooting
> non-the-less. I got to the last paragraph and
> realized something that I was told happened a
> couple of days ago that might be relevant. My
> room mate was home when this happened so this is
> second-hand knowledge. She was watching tv when
> the power went out then, a second later, there
> was a big POP down the street (a transformer
> maybe?). Everything still worked with the
> computer though; however, maybe it just needed
> to be power-cycled.
>
> Any other comments will be greatly appreciated!
>
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 6:56 PM, Jon Kettenhofen
> <subs@kexsof.com <mailto:subs@kexsof.com>> wrote:
>
> Hello Michael,
>
> I'm curious, did you buy this quad new or
> did you buy it used or is it a work computer
> owned by a company? I get the feeling that
> you bought it used.
>
> There's almost always a reason for failures
> and it's usually a problem that can be
> isolated. If it's a part, it can be
> replaced. If it's something else, it can be
> fixed.
>
> When stuff like this starts to happen, it
> may be one of three things: a loose
> connection or a bad motherboard or a power
> supply. Apple builds solid hardware but
> sometimes it gets abuse or just used in a
> poor environment with too much heat and/or
> moisture or just takes a physical beating -
> they are rather heavy. Also quads, I
> believe, have water cooling. I have seen at
> least one report of leaks. That's usually
> easy to rule out if there's no leaks.
>
> So where to begin? Well, the pedant is back!
>
> You may want to take some anti-static
> electricity precautions. First, disconnect
> the Mac completely from all exterior cords,
> wires, etc. Lay it on its side where there
> is plenty of light, a clean worktop area and
> a Phillips screwdriver. As you have seen,
> it's easily taken apart, at least the easy
> pieces need only your hands. Pull the fans
> out, take the video and other cards out,
> unhinge and pull the memory sticks out and
> so on until you are puzzled how to get the
> cooling shrouds out. (Don't do that.)
> Inspect everything. Look for any
> corrosion. Remove as much dirt and dust as
> you can with an air duster can (take care
> here, the these cans may contain
> hydrocarbons that are flammable and they
> should not be inhaled!). If you use an air
> compressor, be gentle and use lower pressure
> less than 40psi. What you can't get out
> with air, start with a clean microfiber
> cloth and wipe without generating static
> (i.e. don't rub hard). Make sure all the
> connectors are clean and shiny before
> reassembling.
>
> We call this clean and re-seat the boards.
>
> Make sure you put the same memory sticks
> back into the same slots - it usually
> matters or makes a difference. If you don't
> remember, read up on it from a manual,
> usually online at Apple.com.
>
> Memory sticks are tricky because they often
> won't reseat properly without strong
> pressure. First, make sure the middle slot
> on the memory stick is lined up with the
> ridge in the bottom of the connector. The
> slots are offset from the middle on purpose,
> they are only supposed to go in one way.
> (Having burned out a memory stick by forcing
> it in backwards, I can speak from
> experience! Won't do that again!) The way to
> handle this is to use two hands, with thumbs
> or your choice of fingers at each end of the
> board. Making sure the stick is aligned
> correctly in the connector; push FIRMLY down
> until both ends of the connector snap into
> the stick. Main logic boards are epoxy and
> embedded fiber, are very strong and can take
> a little flexing without
> hurting them. Same with memory sticks.
>
> Make sure the memory is seated well - it may
> take close inspection with a flashlight. If
> the sticks are all the same size, then no
> stick should be higher than the lowest one.
>
> OK, reassemble the computer.
>
> Testing the power supply can be difficult.
> It's easier with a common desktop PC because
> the power connector is almost always on top
> of the board and easily accessible. It's
> not enough to test a power supply out of the
> computer because it won't be under load.
>
> Here's how an expert taught me to test the
> power supply on a desktop PC (but not a
> Dell!) Take a meter and set it to DC
> volts. There will be a pair of test leads
> with pointed ends to poke at things.
>
> You will push the points into the connector
> until it connects to the metal of the
> connector sleeve. Connect the common lead
> to a black wire's connector. Test all the
> colored wires with the positive (usually
> red) meter probe. Here are the correct
> voltages for a PC:
>
> Yellow +12 Volts
> Red +5 Volts
> Purple +5 Volts
> Orange +3.3Volts
> Green don't test; this turns on
> the PC when shorted to black
> White -5 Volts
> Blue -12 Volts
> Gray I think this one is for the
> power-is-on LED
> Brown Not sure about this one
>
> The important thing is that the voltages are
> nearly correct when the computer is powered
> on because that shows the power supply to be
> good when under a load.
>
> One other thing - sometimes a part can
> acquire a static charge which won't
> dissipate properly. The only remedy for
> this is to wait until it discharges (unless
> you are a motherboard repair person).
>
> Things that have hurt my equipment is
> usually near lightning strikes. Lost one
> treasured Mac to a lightning strike that hit
> the phone lines. Took out phones for three
> stories above me. Mac did not fail right
> away but eventually lost it (sniff :( ).
> Lightning strikes across the strike have
> taken out a couple ethernet ports over the
> years even though my equipment has always
> been on a UPS. Strong strike will generate
> an EMP which is sometimes picked up by a
> network wire of a resonant length. Usually,
> though, it's not serious but if the storm is
> bad, we'll turn off the electronics until
> it's past.
>
> I apologize for the length of this, but you
> get the idea of the lengths I go to fix things.
>
> Best of Luck and let me know how it turns
> out if you have the time,
> As always, take care.
> Jon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 09/17/2014 06:27 PM, Michael Havens wrote:
>
> first certain keys sometimes don't work
> unless I hold the key down and
> then after a time the character will
> appear (sometimes multiple times).
> So it was recomended I pop the keys off
> and clean under them. So I do
> and it doesn't fix the problem. No
> problem. I'll stick it under my table
> and attach wireless periphiels too it.
> Then I need to go visit my kids.
> So I figure I'll suffer with the
> keyboard problem. The day I left for
> Miami (at the airport) the hardware
> internet switch would not turn on.
> Then, after I arrive in Miami, I turn on
> the computer and a notice
> appears at boot saying that 'the cooling
> fan is not operating properly'.
> What problem do you think is causing
> this? I called my dad and he said
> it sounds like the hard disk is going
> bad. He also said maybe the
> keyboard controller (because of the
> internet switch).
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
>
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