Thefirst thing I di was to stick the live cd in. That didn't fix a thing
plus that doesn't take care of the cooling fan issue..... did I tell you I
get that notice right before bios takes over?
:-)~MIKE~(-:
On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Stephen Partington <
cryptworks@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Have you tried a live CD of any flavor to see if it persists?
> On Sep 18, 2014 8:35 AM, "Michael Havens" <bmike1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> when the keybosrd problem stsrted about 6 months ago getting another
>> keyboard was the first thing I did and there was no problem with it when I
>> attached an external keyboard. You mentioned smoking being a problem? I've
>> never done that. You wondered about the distro? I run Linux Mint.
>>
>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 6:08 AM, Lisa Kachold <foobar@it-clowns.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Mike,
>>>
>>> In order to work with the technician effectively, you are going to want
>>> to be closely involved with the work process. In this respect, you will ask
>>> him what he thinks the problem is, or what his first actions are, for
>>> instance if he recommends a full diagnostic.
>>>
>>> But first, I would do some diagnostics myself before taking your
>>> equipment to the technician.
>>>
>>> IT IS A GOOD POSSIBILITY THAT THIS IS DUE TO MORE THAN ONE CAUSE (but
>>> all related to your distro or drivers)!
>>>
>>> If you are SMOKING or exposing the laptop to soot of any kind, you will
>>> want to clean the laptop completely FIRST.
>>>
>>> Everyone has issues with the WIRELESS switch on older equipment, just
>>> futz with it, as I have never seen anyone have it STAY BROKEN? But this
>>> clearly would be the technician stage....
>>>
>>> Various diagnostic programs exist for linux, which you might consider
>>> before spending money on the technician, to verify power supply, bus, and
>>> CPU.
>>>
>>> Intel Proc Diagnostic for Linux:
>>> https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=19792
>>> PowerTop:
>>> http://xmodulo.com/2013/06/how-to-monitor-power-usage-in-linux.html
>>>
>>> What distro are you running? Known issues with KDE and Chrome with
>>> keyboard I/O are common (which I expect is the cause of your issues after
>>> applying a patch):
>>>
>>>
>>> http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=53398&p=306336&hilit=keyboard+stops+working#p306336
>>>
>>> Spares are your friend, so try an external keyboard and see if the issue
>>> follows that hardware (kernel driver) switch, then you can be sure that it
>>> is application/distro based rather than hardware based.
>>>
>>> As for fan control, there are various tools and again KNOWN ISSUES
>>> (ArchLinux) with fancontrol under linux:
>>> http://askubuntu.com/questions/63588/how-do-i-get-fan-control-working
>>> Karmic: https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/linux/+bug/451337
>>>
>>> You can use a live distro to rule out your keyboard issues - divide and
>>> conquer.
>>>
>>> Using OSI Level debugging, you go to the layer where the issue exists
>>> and traverse up and down to adjacent layers, so clearly there is only the
>>> human level on the other side of the Physical Layer 1, which is where the
>>> problems present themselves, so the other direction would be the drivers in
>>> linux.
>>>
>>> You would rule out issues here with a systematic diagnostic, use of
>>> spares and intelligent research.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 8:54 PM, Michael Havens <bmike1@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> What can I tell the service tech so I don't sound too stupid?
>>>>
>>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 8:03 PM, Michael Havens <bmike1@gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> oh.... I forgot to say that none of the other computers in my house
>>>>> seem to have been affected though it may be that it needs to be
>>>>> power-cycled and/or it may be something that only affects wireless and
>>>>> something got on the phone lines (my home is on DSL).
>>>>>
>>>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 7:50 PM, Michael Havens <bmike1@gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you so much for the detailed explanation, Jon. You know.... I
>>>>>> have a laptop and I don't have a MAC but I read your troubleshooting
>>>>>> non-the-less. I got to the last paragraph and realized something that I was
>>>>>> told happened a couple of days ago that might be relevant. My room mate was
>>>>>> home when this happened so this is second-hand knowledge. She was watching
>>>>>> tv when the power went out then, a second later, there was a big POP down
>>>>>> the street (a transformer maybe?). Everything still worked with the
>>>>>> computer though; however, maybe it just needed to be power-cycled.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any other comments will be greatly appreciated!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 6:56 PM, Jon Kettenhofen <subs@kexsof.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hello Michael,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm curious, did you buy this quad new or did you buy it used or is
>>>>>>> it a work computer owned by a company? I get the feeling that you bought
>>>>>>> it used.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> There's almost always a reason for failures and it's usually a
>>>>>>> problem that can be isolated. If it's a part, it can be replaced. If it's
>>>>>>> something else, it can be fixed.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> When stuff like this starts to happen, it may be one of three
>>>>>>> things: a loose connection or a bad motherboard or a power supply. Apple
>>>>>>> builds solid hardware but sometimes it gets abuse or just used in a poor
>>>>>>> environment with too much heat and/or moisture or just takes a physical
>>>>>>> beating - they are rather heavy. Also quads, I believe, have water
>>>>>>> cooling. I have seen at least one report of leaks. That's usually easy to
>>>>>>> rule out if there's no leaks.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So where to begin? Well, the pedant is back!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You may want to take some anti-static electricity precautions.
>>>>>>> First, disconnect the Mac completely from all exterior cords, wires, etc.
>>>>>>> Lay it on its side where there is plenty of light, a clean worktop area and
>>>>>>> a Phillips screwdriver. As you have seen, it's easily taken apart, at
>>>>>>> least the easy pieces need only your hands. Pull the fans out, take the
>>>>>>> video and other cards out, unhinge and pull the memory sticks out and so on
>>>>>>> until you are puzzled how to get the cooling shrouds out. (Don't do that.)
>>>>>>> Inspect everything. Look for any corrosion. Remove as much dirt and dust
>>>>>>> as you can with an air duster can (take care here, the these cans may
>>>>>>> contain hydrocarbons that are flammable and they should not be inhaled!).
>>>>>>> If you use an air compressor, be gentle and use lower pressure less than
>>>>>>> 40psi. What you can't get out with air, start with a clean microfiber
>>>>>>> cloth and wipe without generating static (i.e. don't rub hard). Make sure
>>>>>>> all the connectors are clean and shiny before reassembling.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> We call this clean and re-seat the boards.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Make sure you put the same memory sticks back into the same slots -
>>>>>>> it usually matters or makes a difference. If you don't remember, read up
>>>>>>> on it from a manual, usually online at Apple.com.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Memory sticks are tricky because they often won't reseat properly
>>>>>>> without strong pressure. First, make sure the middle slot on the memory
>>>>>>> stick is lined up with the ridge in the bottom of the connector. The slots
>>>>>>> are offset from the middle on purpose, they are only supposed to go in one
>>>>>>> way. (Having burned out a memory stick by forcing it in backwards, I can
>>>>>>> speak from experience! Won't do that again!) The way to handle this is to
>>>>>>> use two hands, with thumbs or your choice of fingers at each end of the
>>>>>>> board. Making sure the stick is aligned correctly in the connector; push
>>>>>>> FIRMLY down until both ends of the connector snap into the stick. Main
>>>>>>> logic boards are epoxy and embedded fiber, are very strong and can take a
>>>>>>> little flexing without
>>>>>>> hurting them. Same with memory sticks.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Make sure the memory is seated well - it may take close inspection
>>>>>>> with a flashlight. If the sticks are all the same size, then no stick
>>>>>>> should be higher than the lowest one.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> OK, reassemble the computer.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Testing the power supply can be difficult. It's easier with a
>>>>>>> common desktop PC because the power connector is almost always on top of
>>>>>>> the board and easily accessible. It's not enough to test a power supply
>>>>>>> out of the computer because it won't be under load.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Here's how an expert taught me to test the power supply on a desktop
>>>>>>> PC (but not a Dell!) Take a meter and set it to DC volts. There will be a
>>>>>>> pair of test leads with pointed ends to poke at things.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You will push the points into the connector until it connects to the
>>>>>>> metal of the connector sleeve. Connect the common lead to a black wire's
>>>>>>> connector. Test all the colored wires with the positive (usually red)
>>>>>>> meter probe. Here are the correct voltages for a PC:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Yellow +12 Volts
>>>>>>> Red +5 Volts
>>>>>>> Purple +5 Volts
>>>>>>> Orange +3.3Volts
>>>>>>> Green don't test; this turns on the PC when shorted to
>>>>>>> black
>>>>>>> White -5 Volts
>>>>>>> Blue -12 Volts
>>>>>>> Gray I think this one is for the power-is-on LED
>>>>>>> Brown Not sure about this one
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The important thing is that the voltages are nearly correct when the
>>>>>>> computer is powered on because that shows the power supply to be good when
>>>>>>> under a load.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> One other thing - sometimes a part can acquire a static charge which
>>>>>>> won't dissipate properly. The only remedy for this is to wait until it
>>>>>>> discharges (unless you are a motherboard repair person).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Things that have hurt my equipment is usually near lightning
>>>>>>> strikes. Lost one treasured Mac to a lightning strike that hit the phone
>>>>>>> lines. Took out phones for three stories above me. Mac did not fail right
>>>>>>> away but eventually lost it (sniff :( ). Lightning strikes across the
>>>>>>> strike have taken out a couple ethernet ports over the years even though my
>>>>>>> equipment has always been on a UPS. Strong strike will generate an EMP
>>>>>>> which is sometimes picked up by a network wire of a resonant length.
>>>>>>> Usually, though, it's not serious but if the storm is bad, we'll turn off
>>>>>>> the electronics until it's past.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I apologize for the length of this, but you get the idea of the
>>>>>>> lengths I go to fix things.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Best of Luck and let me know how it turns out if you have the time,
>>>>>>> As always, take care.
>>>>>>> Jon
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 09/17/2014 06:27 PM, Michael Havens wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> first certain keys sometimes don't work unless I hold the key down
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> then after a time the character will appear (sometimes multiple
>>>>>>>> times).
>>>>>>>> So it was recomended I pop the keys off and clean under them. So I
>>>>>>>> do
>>>>>>>> and it doesn't fix the problem. No problem. I'll stick it under my
>>>>>>>> table
>>>>>>>> and attach wireless periphiels too it. Then I need to go visit my
>>>>>>>> kids.
>>>>>>>> So I figure I'll suffer with the keyboard problem. The day I left
>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>> Miami (at the airport) the hardware internet switch would not turn
>>>>>>>> on.
>>>>>>>> Then, after I arrive in Miami, I turn on the computer and a notice
>>>>>>>> appears at boot saying that 'the cooling fan is not operating
>>>>>>>> properly'.
>>>>>>>> What problem do you think is causing this? I called my dad and he
>>>>>>>> said
>>>>>>>> it sounds like the hard disk is going bad. He also said maybe the
>>>>>>>> keyboard controller (because of the internet switch).
>>>>>>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
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