Re: DSL bonding

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Author: Michael Butash via PLUG-discuss
Date:  
To: Main PLUG discussion list
CC: Michael Butash
Subject: Re: DSL bonding
So I went through this moving from Cox to CenturyLink, and pretty much as
described, fairly painless.

<tldr>

I had scheduled a CL tech to install me for new service a few years ago,
and we first hit the outside where CL ran their cabling in. It was an
ancient telephony distribution from the 90's, and I've never had a
land-line in my house since owning it in 2002. My house built in 95 at
least used cat5 or like, so I have 4 pairs to every room, so 2 pairs I need
was just fine for bonded DSL He ripped out the old block, removing the
house cabling but the one, and isolated the particular line we needed to my
office where the modem lives, added an approved jack, done. Bonded dsl is
2x 2-wire channels, and they essentially load-balance 75+75mbps channels.
I have tested this to n-by gigabit upstreams.

Phone only guarantees 2 wires are available, so telcos built on this 100
years ago are a bit assed-out on passable high-frequency modulation schemas
in use for data and other things to move beyond where they're at. DSL
makes up for this, particularly when double up on wires it gets better, but
still unshielded and prone to breakdown. Problem is mostly it isn't
shielded, thus capable of very high frequency modulation ala Cable/DOCSIS,
so it will never go much further than it has today whereas Cable scales to
gigabits with channelization and QAM modulation at 32bit rates.

VDSL tech is capable of roughly 75mbps per channel, and 2x of these get you
to around CL's bonded DSL limits. This also includes your distance
limitations to your local DSLAM, or regional router that terminates your
data that degrades this eventually further you are from it, so it's a bit
tricky. It's been stuck here for years, and pretty much at life end. This
is why my cousin living half a mile from me can only get 75mbps from CL and
I can with bonded @150mbps here. Old crap network there.

Fiber, particularly Single Mode, gives you whatever to ~100GbE, but depends
on how your provider does low-rate Passive Optical Networking (PON) today
for residential fiber. Not quite the same as a business data network, but
any fiber is better than copper networks.

Why Centurylink's only hope for the future is fiber vs. copper in new
builds. I like my 25yr old house still, so no fiber for me ever. Unless I
street cut my block for fiber myself, which I've considered, just need to
get my neighbors to buy into me as their new gigabit isp. ;)

-mb


On Sat, Aug 8, 2020 at 1:27 PM Jim via PLUG-discuss <
> wrote:

> Ok. I won't complain if I have to go out and buy a 4 conductor phone cord.
> On 8/7/20 9:05 AM, Stephen Partington wrote:
>
> My understanding of this is that they will activate the second pair that
> is commonly used in the RJ-43 port in your wall. This will allow 2 lines
> active to the device.
>
> Changes inside might need to happen if your residence does not have 4 wire
> (2 line) compatibility. (IE 2 pairs to the jack vs 1 pair)
>
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 9:10 PM Jim via PLUG-discuss <
> > wrote:
>
>> Where I live, I get AT&T for my DSL service. I've signed up for an
>> upgrade from 10 Mbps to 25. I finally got someone there who would tell
>> me why a technician visit is required for the upgrade. They're bonding 2
>> pairs to supply the faster speed here. I've read up online about DSL
>> bonding. I understand that one pair will carry some of the data, and
>> the other pair will carry some. But one thing I didn't find out was
>> whether or not anything will change between the wall jack and the
>> modem. Is everything done outside or do they have to come inside? I
>> currently have a 2 conductor cord connecting my modem to the wall jack.
>> Will that have to be replaced with a 4 conductor cord? Do they install
>> an extra box outside or inside? I guess all will be answered on the
>> 18th when the guy is scheduled to be here. I'm really curious how this
>> works.
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>
>
>
> --
> A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from
> rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button.
>
> Stephen
>
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