An extreme example: Imagine that you are trying to get a good picture of
someone arc welding at night outside. You would need to at least take a
picture of them fast enough so that the light from the arc doesn't
obliterate everything else in the picture, and then you would need to
get a picture slow enough so that it could capture everything that isn't
being lit by the light of the welder, then you would need to take a
normal picture to pick up everything that is at a normal light level.
In the above example you will be taking pictures at the extreme ends of
your camera's exposure limits in order to get a proper spread of images
for your HDR and your camera probably won't allow enough spread to do it
automatically since the image to covert the dark parts may require a few
seconds of exposure to properly expose the darker parts of the image.
Brian Cluff
On 07/22/2016 05:37 AM, Stephen Partington wrote:
>
> Best results for HDR is to expose for the sky, then expose for the
> shadows then exposed for your subject/middle areas. As opposed to just
> picking a range.
>
>
> On Jul 21, 2016 10:15 PM, "Michael" <bmike1@gmail.com
> <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> I've been wondering: How is using more than three different
> exposures beneficial? Should you have an odd number of exposures
> with EV 0 being the one in the middle?
> What is the best EV separation (+/- 1, +/- 5, +/- 10)? Or is it
> more trial and error?
> --
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
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