Michael,
Here's what to do:
Disconnect all network cables from the router that you want to connect
to and then
run an ethernet cable with the RJ-45 connectors (should be a good
cable!) from a LAN port to the computer.
If you don't get an IP address from the DHCP on the router, then pull
the power cable on the router,
leave the router off for about 30 seconds and then plug the power back
in and wait for the router
lights to come on indicating that the router is fully booted. If you
have DHCP set on your computer,
you should be able to connect to the router. I don't know the brand of
router you are using but it's
probably using an address of 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1. If you get a
DHCP address on your computer,
you will be able to tell the address of the router unless it starts with
169.xxxxx which means that
there is not a connection. If you get a 169.xxxx address, then reboot
the computer and check again.
Once you have a DCHP address, then the address to type in the browser is
the same as your DHCP address
EXCEPT the last number should be 1 (one): xxx.xxx.xxx.1 - like so.
This should give you a connection
UNLESS this is SECOND router and it has taken it's address from the
first router. In that case, make sure
you have disconnected the WAN cable from the second router and reboot it
by power cycling. No need to
factory reset the router if you know the password. It should connect
OK. When connected, make sure you
find the menu item that allows you to set the router up as a repeater or
a bridge. If you set it up as a
bridge, then the xxx.xxx.xxx.1 address will be for router number one.
The second router will have a DHCP
address assigned by the first router. You will need to access the first
router in order to determine
the DHCP address of router.
Here's the gotcha: for security reasons router manufacturers program
the firmware to initialize routers only
with physical ethernet/network cable connected to a single computer. So
if you have trouble with the router,
you need to isolate it from the network and use only a single computer
(and maybe a WAN/internete connection).
It's rather tedious for both of us to type back and forth because I
don't know exactly what you are doing or how
your network (LAN) is connected so let me know if you want to use a
skype connection. My Skype name is
jonkettenhofen BUT I have blocked all but friends so you will need to
let me know what your skype name is.
Allowing me to see your setup will make setup go faster, easier and I'll
be able to help you clear up your
understanding of your home network (hopefully!) It's up to you.
Hope that helps some,
Jon
''
I got a problem. I'm trying to update it but can't get into the
configuration page (192.168.1.1). I tried resetting the device (I
depressed the reset button for 65 seconds) but to no avail. Any ideas?Â
:-)~MIKE~(-:
On Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 12:52 AM, Michael Butash <
michael@butash.net
<
mailto:michael@butash.net>> wrote:
Vlan isolation, inside and outside for simplest of terms. Vlan 1
is inside, Vlan 2 is outside. By nature, one cannot reach another,
thus Virtual LAN's.
In the middle sits a bridge, and iptables mangles packets between
them. This is your nat, firewall, application inspection, etc.
A process on the wan grabs a dhcp address, adds it outside, and a
default route to the upstream dslam or cmts. It also registers it
as the external address to nat your internal traffic as to the
world, effectively hiding your internal routable subnets.
The inside vlan uses a private address, usually 192.168.1.1/24
<http://192.168.1.1/24> by default. This gives you 253 usable
address, and gives out a subset of that via dhcp. When clients
come up wired or wireless, they get an address from the dhcp server
when they broadcast for an address.
Routers usually bridge the wireless 802.11 radio(s) to this vlan as
well, bringing them all into the 192.168.1.0/24
<http://192.168.1.0/24> subnet on that vlan. The DHCP server gives
wired or wireless clients a local 192.168.1.0/24
<http://192.168.1.0/24> address out of the subset it hands out,
including the gateway for the subnet (itself, 192.168.1.1), and dns
servers for it, again itself.
They get a local dns server that is usually dnsmasq running on the
router, caching and forwarding to the upstream provider dns servers
given externally to the router when it gets its WAN address. It
forwards your requests on mostly.
Wireless does some form of security, hopefully, letting client onto
the ssid with a pre-share key or some other. No wpa1, only
wpa2+aes. Tkip is exploitable, so is wps pin registration (easily
crackable without mitigation routines).
Most routers these days use dd-wrt, or some variant, usually some
oem abomination hack of linux. Your wrt54g is like the granddaddy
of dd-wrt routers, see what generation it is and see if it's
upgradable. Probably doing yourself a favor upgrading the 10yr old
firmware to something secure anyways, keeping some foreign entity
from redirecting your dns for bank servers to snatch your credentials.
Clear as mud? Google lots of those words.
-mb
On 10/19/2014 12:31 AM, Michael Havens wrote:
> so the port I'm wondering about is an input port then. I thought I
> read that it is also a wan part. How does that work? Like I know
> the internet is a wan but how does it work in this case?
>
>
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 10:27 PM, koder <iscreamkid@gmail.com
> <mailto:iscreamkid@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I have the same device in my networking system. My answer may
> not be 100% correct, but here is my SWAG:
>
> The device was designed to serve as a router with DHCP server
> capabilities, in other words it hands out IP addresses to
> requests that come from one of the output ports.
>
> You can access the device using its web page and turn that
> feature off, it then acts as a bridge router and the DHCP
> functioning will come from further upsteam, from your other
> router.
>
> The network will not function correctly if you have two
> different devices trying to pass out IP addresses using DHCP.
> Everything pretty much quits talking to each other.
>
> While I have never tried using the device by plugging
> everything only into the output ports, I am guessing that
> connection setup would use the device as a bare dumb switch.
> No more double DHCP, only happy connectivity.
>
> I am reasonably sure my explanation is not technically
> correct, but is functional. I was quite loose with input,
> output, upstream, and downstream analogies, but that is the
> way I think of them.
>
> By the way on a separate item, it is my understanding that
> most of these devices are hacked and infected and should be
> either upgraded, or replaced. I have yet to do either, but I
> think that is the case.
>
> HM
>
>
>
> On 10/17/2014 03:08 PM, Michael Havens wrote:
>> That is the router I have. On the back there are 4 LAN ports
>> and another port labled Internet. My setup had the cable from
>> the modem feeding into that port and everything worked until
>> a couple of days ago. Today I switched that cable to a LAN
>> port and everything worked again. I asked in another thread
>> the purpose of the internet port and MR Butash gave me an
>> answer but it is still a lot hazy. In my research to answer
>> the question myself I found a wikipedia article that states:
>>
>> The original *WRT54G* was first released in December 2002.
>> It has a 4+1 port network switch
>> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_switch>Â (the
>> Internet/WAN port is part of the same internal network
>> switch, but on a different VLAN
>> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VLAN>).
>>
>> My questions: What is that port for if not to be an input
>> port for the internet
>> and
>> Why was it working as an input port for the internet and why
>> did it stop working as such?
>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>
>>
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