Michael,
It might just be time to UPGRADE!
References:
http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=67240 Keyboard
http://community.linuxmint.com/tutorial/view/1287 Wireless Switch
http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=174540 Fan Control
You can fix or address each, or upgrade and install new system.
I recommend new system.
On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 8:34 AM, Michael Havens <
bmike1@gmail.com> wrote:
> when the keybosrd problem stsrted about 6 months ago getting another
> keyboard was the first thing I did and there was no problem with it when I
> attached an external keyboard. You mentioned smoking being a problem? I've
> never done that. You wondered about the distro? I run Linux Mint.
>
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
> On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 6:08 AM, Lisa Kachold <foobar@it-clowns.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Mike,
>>
>> In order to work with the technician effectively, you are going to want
>> to be closely involved with the work process. In this respect, you will ask
>> him what he thinks the problem is, or what his first actions are, for
>> instance if he recommends a full diagnostic.
>>
>> But first, I would do some diagnostics myself before taking your
>> equipment to the technician.
>>
>> IT IS A GOOD POSSIBILITY THAT THIS IS DUE TO MORE THAN ONE CAUSE (but all
>> related to your distro or drivers)!
>>
>> If you are SMOKING or exposing the laptop to soot of any kind, you will
>> want to clean the laptop completely FIRST.
>>
>> Everyone has issues with the WIRELESS switch on older equipment, just
>> futz with it, as I have never seen anyone have it STAY BROKEN? But this
>> clearly would be the technician stage....
>>
>> Various diagnostic programs exist for linux, which you might consider
>> before spending money on the technician, to verify power supply, bus, and
>> CPU.
>>
>> Intel Proc Diagnostic for Linux:
>> https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=19792
>> PowerTop:
>> http://xmodulo.com/2013/06/how-to-monitor-power-usage-in-linux.html
>>
>> What distro are you running? Known issues with KDE and Chrome with
>> keyboard I/O are common (which I expect is the cause of your issues after
>> applying a patch):
>>
>>
>> http://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=53398&p=306336&hilit=keyboard+stops+working#p306336
>>
>> Spares are your friend, so try an external keyboard and see if the issue
>> follows that hardware (kernel driver) switch, then you can be sure that it
>> is application/distro based rather than hardware based.
>>
>> As for fan control, there are various tools and again KNOWN ISSUES
>> (ArchLinux) with fancontrol under linux:
>> http://askubuntu.com/questions/63588/how-do-i-get-fan-control-working
>> Karmic: https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/linux/+bug/451337
>>
>> You can use a live distro to rule out your keyboard issues - divide and
>> conquer.
>>
>> Using OSI Level debugging, you go to the layer where the issue exists and
>> traverse up and down to adjacent layers, so clearly there is only the human
>> level on the other side of the Physical Layer 1, which is where the
>> problems present themselves, so the other direction would be the drivers in
>> linux.
>>
>> You would rule out issues here with a systematic diagnostic, use of
>> spares and intelligent research.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 8:54 PM, Michael Havens <bmike1@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> What can I tell the service tech so I don't sound too stupid?
>>>
>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 8:03 PM, Michael Havens <bmike1@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> oh.... I forgot to say that none of the other computers in my house
>>>> seem to have been affected though it may be that it needs to be
>>>> power-cycled and/or it may be something that only affects wireless and
>>>> something got on the phone lines (my home is on DSL).
>>>>
>>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 7:50 PM, Michael Havens <bmike1@gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you so much for the detailed explanation, Jon. You know.... I
>>>>> have a laptop and I don't have a MAC but I read your troubleshooting
>>>>> non-the-less. I got to the last paragraph and realized something that I was
>>>>> told happened a couple of days ago that might be relevant. My room mate was
>>>>> home when this happened so this is second-hand knowledge. She was watching
>>>>> tv when the power went out then, a second later, there was a big POP down
>>>>> the street (a transformer maybe?). Everything still worked with the
>>>>> computer though; however, maybe it just needed to be power-cycled.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any other comments will be greatly appreciated!
>>>>>
>>>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 6:56 PM, Jon Kettenhofen <subs@kexsof.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hello Michael,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm curious, did you buy this quad new or did you buy it used or is
>>>>>> it a work computer owned by a company? I get the feeling that you bought
>>>>>> it used.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> There's almost always a reason for failures and it's usually a
>>>>>> problem that can be isolated. If it's a part, it can be replaced. If it's
>>>>>> something else, it can be fixed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When stuff like this starts to happen, it may be one of three things:
>>>>>> a loose connection or a bad motherboard or a power supply. Apple builds
>>>>>> solid hardware but sometimes it gets abuse or just used in a poor
>>>>>> environment with too much heat and/or moisture or just takes a physical
>>>>>> beating - they are rather heavy. Also quads, I believe, have water
>>>>>> cooling. I have seen at least one report of leaks. That's usually easy to
>>>>>> rule out if there's no leaks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So where to begin? Well, the pedant is back!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You may want to take some anti-static electricity precautions.
>>>>>> First, disconnect the Mac completely from all exterior cords, wires, etc.
>>>>>> Lay it on its side where there is plenty of light, a clean worktop area and
>>>>>> a Phillips screwdriver. As you have seen, it's easily taken apart, at
>>>>>> least the easy pieces need only your hands. Pull the fans out, take the
>>>>>> video and other cards out, unhinge and pull the memory sticks out and so on
>>>>>> until you are puzzled how to get the cooling shrouds out. (Don't do that.)
>>>>>> Inspect everything. Look for any corrosion. Remove as much dirt and dust
>>>>>> as you can with an air duster can (take care here, the these cans may
>>>>>> contain hydrocarbons that are flammable and they should not be inhaled!).
>>>>>> If you use an air compressor, be gentle and use lower pressure less than
>>>>>> 40psi. What you can't get out with air, start with a clean microfiber
>>>>>> cloth and wipe without generating static (i.e. don't rub hard). Make sure
>>>>>> all the connectors are clean and shiny before reassembling.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> We call this clean and re-seat the boards.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Make sure you put the same memory sticks back into the same slots -
>>>>>> it usually matters or makes a difference. If you don't remember, read up
>>>>>> on it from a manual, usually online at Apple.com.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Memory sticks are tricky because they often won't reseat properly
>>>>>> without strong pressure. First, make sure the middle slot on the memory
>>>>>> stick is lined up with the ridge in the bottom of the connector. The slots
>>>>>> are offset from the middle on purpose, they are only supposed to go in one
>>>>>> way. (Having burned out a memory stick by forcing it in backwards, I can
>>>>>> speak from experience! Won't do that again!) The way to handle this is to
>>>>>> use two hands, with thumbs or your choice of fingers at each end of the
>>>>>> board. Making sure the stick is aligned correctly in the connector; push
>>>>>> FIRMLY down until both ends of the connector snap into the stick. Main
>>>>>> logic boards are epoxy and embedded fiber, are very strong and can take a
>>>>>> little flexing without
>>>>>> hurting them. Same with memory sticks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Make sure the memory is seated well - it may take close inspection
>>>>>> with a flashlight. If the sticks are all the same size, then no stick
>>>>>> should be higher than the lowest one.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> OK, reassemble the computer.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Testing the power supply can be difficult. It's easier with a common
>>>>>> desktop PC because the power connector is almost always on top of the board
>>>>>> and easily accessible. It's not enough to test a power supply out of the
>>>>>> computer because it won't be under load.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Here's how an expert taught me to test the power supply on a desktop
>>>>>> PC (but not a Dell!) Take a meter and set it to DC volts. There will be a
>>>>>> pair of test leads with pointed ends to poke at things.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You will push the points into the connector until it connects to the
>>>>>> metal of the connector sleeve. Connect the common lead to a black wire's
>>>>>> connector. Test all the colored wires with the positive (usually red)
>>>>>> meter probe. Here are the correct voltages for a PC:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yellow +12 Volts
>>>>>> Red +5 Volts
>>>>>> Purple +5 Volts
>>>>>> Orange +3.3Volts
>>>>>> Green don't test; this turns on the PC when shorted to black
>>>>>> White -5 Volts
>>>>>> Blue -12 Volts
>>>>>> Gray I think this one is for the power-is-on LED
>>>>>> Brown Not sure about this one
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The important thing is that the voltages are nearly correct when the
>>>>>> computer is powered on because that shows the power supply to be good when
>>>>>> under a load.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> One other thing - sometimes a part can acquire a static charge which
>>>>>> won't dissipate properly. The only remedy for this is to wait until it
>>>>>> discharges (unless you are a motherboard repair person).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Things that have hurt my equipment is usually near lightning strikes.
>>>>>> Lost one treasured Mac to a lightning strike that hit the phone lines. Took
>>>>>> out phones for three stories above me. Mac did not fail right away but
>>>>>> eventually lost it (sniff :( ). Lightning strikes across the strike have
>>>>>> taken out a couple ethernet ports over the years even though my equipment
>>>>>> has always been on a UPS. Strong strike will generate an EMP which is
>>>>>> sometimes picked up by a network wire of a resonant length. Usually,
>>>>>> though, it's not serious but if the storm is bad, we'll turn off the
>>>>>> electronics until it's past.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I apologize for the length of this, but you get the idea of the
>>>>>> lengths I go to fix things.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Best of Luck and let me know how it turns out if you have the time,
>>>>>> As always, take care.
>>>>>> Jon
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 09/17/2014 06:27 PM, Michael Havens wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> first certain keys sometimes don't work unless I hold the key down
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> then after a time the character will appear (sometimes multiple
>>>>>>> times).
>>>>>>> So it was recomended I pop the keys off and clean under them. So I do
>>>>>>> and it doesn't fix the problem. No problem. I'll stick it under my
>>>>>>> table
>>>>>>> and attach wireless periphiels too it. Then I need to go visit my
>>>>>>> kids.
>>>>>>> So I figure I'll suffer with the keyboard problem. The day I left for
>>>>>>> Miami (at the airport) the hardware internet switch would not turn
>>>>>>> on.
>>>>>>> Then, after I arrive in Miami, I turn on the computer and a notice
>>>>>>> appears at boot saying that 'the cooling fan is not operating
>>>>>>> properly'.
>>>>>>> What problem do you think is causing this? I called my dad and he
>>>>>>> said
>>>>>>> it sounds like the hard disk is going bad. He also said maybe the
>>>>>>> keyboard controller (because of the internet switch).
>>>>>>> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
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