That's a good reference, but it appears to be old. The color code I
detailed in my last post was the "B" standard. Either one works equally
well, but you will find that people tend to use B more, so you are
better off learning it. That article also says that the unused 4 wires
aren't important and can be left out. Which technically true for 10/100
connections you will need to make sure they are wired and correct for
both gigabit connections as well as power over ethernet (POE).
I've had to deal with a handful of places that just wired everything
with the same colors on both ends. The installations were usually done
by electricians who were never trained in low voltage data cables.
While the colors and size (as long as it's as big or bigger) don't
matter in electrical work from a technical standpoint, they are there
for a safety reasons so you don't electrocute yourself or start a fire
the next time someone works on your house, but other than that it could
work it's entire life wired with the wrong colors. With networking the
type of cable and the color pairs you use within that cable matter quite
a bit. With the installations that I have delt with all sorts of
problems come up. The cables will appear to work OK, although you won't
ever get top speed with them, but they are throwing so many errors that
a lot of (cheap) switches will have to work overtime having to deal with
your bad cable and just lockup and need to be reset, or in some cases
burn themselves out. You will also find yourself trying to fix things
that leave you scratching your head and wondering why it isn't working
right, or why it sometimes works and other times doesn't, or even works
for a while and then fails.
Bad cables cause the worst type and most frustrating of failures. It's
much easier to fix something that is just plain broken rathar than
something that sorta works.
Brian Cluff
On 02/10/2013 06:38 PM, Stephen wrote:
> http://www.incentre.net/content/view/75/2/
>
> i could have sworn it was there.... my bad.
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 3:57 PM, Michael Havens <bmike1@gmail.com
> <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> you forgot the link but I guess it is the cable. I had a long
> enough cable to just connect it without it looking pretty and it
> worked. I don't know though. My connections are good (I think) so
> maybe it is the cable itself. That is all I can think of.
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 3:14 PM, Stephen <cryptworks@gmail.com
> <mailto:cryptworks@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> I would take a gander at this link, and look at the various
> diagrams. especially the notes at the end.
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 3:02 PM, Michael Havens
> <bmike1@gmail.com <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> okay, I thought I did it correctly.... I mean the modem is
> lights when I plug the new cable in but my brother tells me
> that he still isn't connected and his box (windows) won't
> ping google. You just need to make the pairs alike on each
> end, right? I answered that question by looking at a known
> good cable. I just replaced the rj45s and same thing. I just
> restarted the ms box and after it started the front network
> computer icons lit up. Then I tried to renew the IP but it
> failed. Then I left and came back to the computer and there
> was a bubble message that said it was connected but still
> couldn't get any pages to load. Then I disabled the
> connection and reenabled and it said it connected. What's
> going on?
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 9, 2013 at 10:17 PM, Michael Havens
> <bmike1@gmail.com <mailto:bmike1@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> thanks brian.... I made a mistake then. Bummer!
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 9, 2013 at 10:11 PM, Brian Cluff
> <brian@snaptek.com <mailto:brian@snaptek.com>> wrote:
>
> No, Just crimp it the conductors on the RJ45 jack
> will pierce the insulation. If you have stripped
> it, it will probably short inside the plug.
>
> Brian Cluff
>
>
> On 02/09/2013 10:02 PM, Michael Havens wrote:
>
> I feel retarded..... I can't remember if you are
> supposed to strip cat 5
> to the copper before you crimp it. I'm thinking
> no but I need to make sure.
> :-)~MIKE~(-:
>
>
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> --
> A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent
> you from rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the
> snooze button.
>
> Stephen
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>
> Stephen
>
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