On 08/19/2016 05:51 PM, Michael wrote:
but it has 17 control points set.
It doesn't matter how many control points you have set if you have parallax distortion between the 2 images.  I've had images with 80 control points between them and it still can't stitch them successfully because the control points don't makes sense because of the distortion.

You said I could rotate it in hugin? How does one do that?

In the preview, go to the MOve/Drag tab and drag the image with the right mouse button and it will rotate.

Brian Cluff

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 4:24 PM, Brian Cluff <brian@snaptek.com> wrote:

I'd say that still fits with my answer.  If you have one image that it can't align it will be sitting on the preview in it's default orientation.

Brian Cluff


On 08/19/2016 11:31 AM, Michael wrote:
I don't know if this is the problem but:
All of the pictures were taken in portrait orientation. In the control point tab all of the images except one are in a landscape orientation. The one image that is in that orientation is the last image in that series and it is the image that is stretched. Does that have any bearing in this problem?

On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Brian Cluff <brian@snaptek.com> wrote:

Double check that you do indeed have control points between every single image.  It sounds like you might have a single image that isn't connected in any way, or maybe only partially connected and when it stitches it end up placed on top of all your other images.  The preview is just an OpenGL preview of what you can expect to get but it works differently than the final stitch so you can often times get different results if your control points aren't all perfect.

You can check your layout tab in the fast panorama preview (the GL preview button) and play with the scale.  The layout tab will quickly show you how your images are connected together and how well.  If you have any images that are just floating out there with no lines then that's your culprit.  You will also want to look for images with very thin lines going between the images.  Thin lines represent weak connections and you will need to increase the number of control points between your images.

There is also a high probability, since you said you hand held the camera when you took the pictures that even though you picked matching spots in the image that there is no way for the program to warp the images  correctly due to parallax distortion.  If your images are of the inside of a room, that's almost certainly the case.

Finding the no parallax point:

http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm

You will have to get one of these and it will have to be precisely setup correctly for your camera if you are going to take pictures indoors.  There is just no other way to do it:

https://www.amazon.com/SUNWAYFOTO-Panoramic-Horizontal-Vertical-Sunway/dp/B00RYNDMOC/ref=sr_1_11

https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Panoramic-Indexing-Rotator-Bracket/dp/B00PN8DY7K/ref=sr_1_14

https://www.amazon.com/FOTOMATE-degree-Panoramic-Bracket-Cameras/dp/B00PQH4OY0/ref=sr_1_32

There are a lot more out there, but these 3 are some of the most affordable ones.  I've got 2 of them; one made by Manfrotto that cost a lot of money and is built like a tank and I think it might weigh as much as a tank as well.  I've also got a Nodal Ninja that I really like that weighs a lot less, which is why I got it, and does an equally good job for a fraction of the money.

Brian Cluff


On 08/19/2016 06:27 AM, Michael wrote:
I'm trying to do a panorama. It found at least 17 control points between images 0,1 and 2,3 and 3,4  (each pair had 17). I had to go in and put control points for images 1 and 2. That was fine but when I stitch it all together the picture on the ball seems fine but the resultin panorama image is one of the five photos of the panorama stretched out. Any ideas how to fix this?

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