oh.... I forgot to say that none of the other computers in my house seem to have been affected though it may be that it needs to be power-cycled and/or it may be something that only affects wireless and something got on the phone lines (my home is on DSL). :-)~MIKE~(-: On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 7:50 PM, Michael Havens wrote: > > Thank you so much for the detailed explanation, Jon. You know.... I have a > laptop and I don't have a MAC but I read your troubleshooting non-the-less. > I got to the last paragraph and realized something that I was told happened > a couple of days ago that might be relevant. My room mate was home when > this happened so this is second-hand knowledge. She was watching tv when > the power went out then, a second later, there was a big POP down the > street (a transformer maybe?). Everything still worked with the > computer though; however, maybe it just needed to be power-cycled. > > Any other comments will be greatly appreciated! > > :-)~MIKE~(-: > > On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 6:56 PM, Jon Kettenhofen wrote: > >> Hello Michael, >> >> I'm curious, did you buy this quad new or did you buy it used or is it a >> work computer owned by a company? I get the feeling that you bought it >> used. >> >> There's almost always a reason for failures and it's usually a problem >> that can be isolated. If it's a part, it can be replaced. If it's >> something else, it can be fixed. >> >> When stuff like this starts to happen, it may be one of three things: a >> loose connection or a bad motherboard or a power supply. Apple builds >> solid hardware but sometimes it gets abuse or just used in a poor >> environment with too much heat and/or moisture or just takes a physical >> beating - they are rather heavy. Also quads, I believe, have water >> cooling. I have seen at least one report of leaks. That's usually easy to >> rule out if there's no leaks. >> >> So where to begin? Well, the pedant is back! >> >> You may want to take some anti-static electricity precautions. First, >> disconnect the Mac completely from all exterior cords, wires, etc. Lay it >> on its side where there is plenty of light, a clean worktop area and a >> Phillips screwdriver. As you have seen, it's easily taken apart, at least >> the easy pieces need only your hands. Pull the fans out, take the video >> and other cards out, unhinge and pull the memory sticks out and so on until >> you are puzzled how to get the cooling shrouds out. (Don't do that.) >> Inspect everything. Look for any corrosion. Remove as much dirt and dust >> as you can with an air duster can (take care here, the these cans may >> contain hydrocarbons that are flammable and they should not be inhaled!). >> If you use an air compressor, be gentle and use lower pressure less than >> 40psi. What you can't get out with air, start with a clean microfiber >> cloth and wipe without generating static (i.e. don't rub hard). Make sure >> all the connectors are clean and shiny before reassembling. >> >> We call this clean and re-seat the boards. >> >> Make sure you put the same memory sticks back into the same slots - it >> usually matters or makes a difference. If you don't remember, read up on >> it from a manual, usually online at Apple.com. >> >> Memory sticks are tricky because they often won't reseat properly without >> strong pressure. First, make sure the middle slot on the memory stick is >> lined up with the ridge in the bottom of the connector. The slots are >> offset from the middle on purpose, they are only supposed to go in one >> way. (Having burned out a memory stick by forcing it in backwards, I can >> speak from experience! Won't do that again!) The way to handle this is to >> use two hands, with thumbs or your choice of fingers at each end of the >> board. Making sure the stick is aligned correctly in the connector; push >> FIRMLY down until both ends of the connector snap into the stick. Main >> logic boards are epoxy and embedded fiber, are very strong and can take a >> little flexing without >> hurting them. Same with memory sticks. >> >> Make sure the memory is seated well - it may take close inspection with a >> flashlight. If the sticks are all the same size, then no stick should be >> higher than the lowest one. >> >> OK, reassemble the computer. >> >> Testing the power supply can be difficult. It's easier with a common >> desktop PC because the power connector is almost always on top of the board >> and easily accessible. It's not enough to test a power supply out of the >> computer because it won't be under load. >> >> Here's how an expert taught me to test the power supply on a desktop PC >> (but not a Dell!) Take a meter and set it to DC volts. There will be a >> pair of test leads with pointed ends to poke at things. >> >> You will push the points into the connector until it connects to the >> metal of the connector sleeve. Connect the common lead to a black wire's >> connector. Test all the colored wires with the positive (usually red) >> meter probe. Here are the correct voltages for a PC: >> >> Yellow +12 Volts >> Red +5 Volts >> Purple +5 Volts >> Orange +3.3Volts >> Green don't test; this turns on the PC when shorted to black >> White -5 Volts >> Blue -12 Volts >> Gray I think this one is for the power-is-on LED >> Brown Not sure about this one >> >> The important thing is that the voltages are nearly correct when the >> computer is powered on because that shows the power supply to be good when >> under a load. >> >> One other thing - sometimes a part can acquire a static charge which >> won't dissipate properly. The only remedy for this is to wait until it >> discharges (unless you are a motherboard repair person). >> >> Things that have hurt my equipment is usually near lightning strikes. >> Lost one treasured Mac to a lightning strike that hit the phone lines. Took >> out phones for three stories above me. Mac did not fail right away but >> eventually lost it (sniff :( ). Lightning strikes across the strike have >> taken out a couple ethernet ports over the years even though my equipment >> has always been on a UPS. Strong strike will generate an EMP which is >> sometimes picked up by a network wire of a resonant length. Usually, >> though, it's not serious but if the storm is bad, we'll turn off the >> electronics until it's past. >> >> I apologize for the length of this, but you get the idea of the lengths I >> go to fix things. >> >> Best of Luck and let me know how it turns out if you have the time, >> As always, take care. >> Jon >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On 09/17/2014 06:27 PM, Michael Havens wrote: >> >>> first certain keys sometimes don't work unless I hold the key down and >>> then after a time the character will appear (sometimes multiple times). >>> So it was recomended I pop the keys off and clean under them. So I do >>> and it doesn't fix the problem. No problem. I'll stick it under my table >>> and attach wireless periphiels too it. Then I need to go visit my kids. >>> So I figure I'll suffer with the keyboard problem. The day I left for >>> Miami (at the airport) the hardware internet switch would not turn on. >>> Then, after I arrive in Miami, I turn on the computer and a notice >>> appears at boot saying that 'the cooling fan is not operating properly'. >>> What problem do you think is causing this? I called my dad and he said >>> it sounds like the hard disk is going bad. He also said maybe the >>> keyboard controller (because of the internet switch). >>> :-)~MIKE~(-: >>> >>> >>> --------------------------------------------------- >>> PLUG-discuss mailing list - PLUG-discuss@lists.phxlinux.org >>> To subscribe, unsubscribe, or to change your mail settings: >>> http://lists.phxlinux.org/mailman/listinfo/plug-discuss >>> >>> >> --------------------------------------------------- >> PLUG-discuss mailing list - PLUG-discuss@lists.phxlinux.org >> To subscribe, unsubscribe, or to change your mail settings: >> http://lists.phxlinux.org/mailman/listinfo/plug-discuss >> > >