Can anybody recommend a good local dialup ISP that is Linux-friendly and
reliable?  I don't need a lot of hand-holding, just one that isn't going
to get all weird when I report a problem and I give them output from
pppd's logs.

(my current ISP, USISP [which is neither linux-friendly nor local] has
constant problems with what should be easy stuff [you know, little things
like changing my account without telling me and keeping the in-addr.arpa
records working] and I'm sick of it)

-Fedl